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Wie sollte Massivholzprodukte gepflegt werden?

How should solid wood products be cared for?

OIL, GLAZE OR WAX?
Whichever type of care you choose, you are already on the right track if you find out about the topic of wood care. With the right wood care, your solid wood will stay beautiful for much longer. But should it be wood oil, wax or wood stain? We explain all the advantages and disadvantages to you here.

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WHY IS WOOD CARE IMPORTANT?
The main concern of wood care is to protect the surface of the wood. Both from scratches or bumps, as well as from dirt. In addition, the right wood care offers comprehensive protection against moisture of all kinds.

Another reason that should not be underestimated is the easier cleaning option. Dusting untreated wood is much more of a hassle than treated wood. Last but not least, the use of wood oils and glazes emphasizes the natural aesthetics of the wood.

EVERYDAY WOOD CARE
Wooden surfaces, whether solid wood or veneered, can basically be cleaned with a damp cloth. It is important that the cleaning rag must not be too damp. A little dishwashing liquid can help with coarse dirt. Then the surface should be rubbed again with a dry cloth.

In the case of coarse-pored surfaces, e.g. B. oak, nut should also be ensured to always wipe in the direction of the grain of the wood. Otherwise the dirt could get into the pores.

THESE AGENTS ARE NOT SUITABLE
Aggressive or abrasive cleaning agents can attack the wood surface and permanently destroy it. Cloths that are too wet are also not the right way to clean wood. Ideally, this should only be slightly damp.

The cloth used for cleaning is just as important. Microfiber cloths or even brushes can leave fine marks. In general, you should always clean in the direction of the grain and never against it. Silicone oils or mineral oils should be avoided completely. Although these are cheaper, they can clog the pores of the wood and cause them to stick together.

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THE PROBLEMS WITH THE PAINTS
When used correctly, varnish is the best protection for wood. Both against moisture and against dirt. Lacquered surfaces are very easy to clean and liquids cannot penetrate inside.

Even so, you should think twice about actually painting your piece of wood. Once varnished, it is difficult to remove the varnish from the wood without damaging it. Over time, the paint can also peel off the surface, causing high repair costs.

In addition, the wood is severely affected in its natural state. It is no longer breathable and cannot absorb or release moisture. The feel is also different than with oil. The surface is sterile and smooth and is not reminiscent of homelike wood.

HOW AND WHEN TO OIL?
Wood oil therefore has a number of advantages over glaze. The crucial question "how do I oil correctly and how often" can be easily explained. There is no generally valid point in time for the "when".

Suppose you want to oil a piece of wood that has not yet been treated. Then you should first sand until the surface appears velvety soft. Depending on the base material, you can start with a 60 grit and work your way up to a 180 grit. An intermediate sanding with 120 grit is recommended.

If the surface is soft, the wood should be watered. To do this, simply wipe the wood surface with a wet sponge until all surfaces are moistened. It is best to set it up so that excess water runs off. The water should be lukewarm to warm. The water causes the last fibers to stand up, which after a drying time of 6-12 hours are also sanded with 180-grit sandpaper.

Now the surface can be oiled. It is best to use organic linseed oil for this. For the first application, oil vigorously with a cotton cloth. The oil is worked into the grain. After half an hour of drying time, the excess oil is removed. The wood is then left for 24 hours to allow the oil to penetrate deep inside and dry. This is followed by one or two more oil processes. Complete drying takes about 23 days. After just one day, however, nothing stands in the way of easy use.

There is no standard answer to the question of when a piece of wood that has already been oiled should be oiled again. Basically, you can read that from the wood. If it looks pale and very dry, you should definitely think about re-oiling. If you've buffed out a dent or scratch with sandpaper, be sure to oil the area first before using it.

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DENTS, CUTS AND SCRATCHES
Dents on the wood surface seem to be particularly bad at first. But there is a very simple trick to "dent out" the dent and level the wood surface again. All you need is a wet cleaning rag and an iron. The hot rag is placed on the damaged area and the warm iron is placed over it. The combination of water and heat causes the wood fibers to swell, which evens out the surface a bit.

THE INFLUENCE OF LOCATION
In principle, there is not much to consider here. Of course, your piece of wood should not vegetate unprotected in the open air. Full exposure to the sun can also cause the color of the wood to fade.

Nevertheless, you should know that solid wood "lives" on. Depending on the humidity, it warps or contracts. Not really perceptible to the eye and at most noticeable through an occasional cracking noise. The summer in your four rooms has a higher humidity than the winter. Your piece of wood then also notices this and adapts to the environment.

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